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| Drum Sander Stains http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=5755 |
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| Author: | dubell [ Tue Mar 21, 2006 2:15 am ] |
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I leveled a rosette to my soundboard today and the dye bled into the soundboard. I leveled it on my drum sander with 120 grit. I seem to get stains where ever glue lines are. I also had some stains along the soundboard glue line when I ran it through the drum sander a few weeks back. Today, these disappeared. Is this typical for a drum sander? |
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| Author: | Don Williams [ Tue Mar 21, 2006 2:19 am ] |
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Doug, I have found that if I use the drum sander that I also have problems with glue areas, but I've managed to decrease the intensity of the problem by sanding lighter. I used to sand, then tweak a bit more on the depth, and sand again. I find that getting the pass really light and then repeating at the same setting seems to help. It takes a lot longer to sand it down that way, but it really seems to help. You can't rush good things. Lighter pressure, skim sanding should help. This technique also helps to keep your sandpaper from clogging. With tles pressure, you're not jamming the wood up into the grain of the sandpaper. Let the outer surface of the paper do the work. It's hard to find that balance, but if you can it will help immensely. |
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| Author: | Dave Rector [ Tue Mar 21, 2006 3:15 am ] |
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I do what Don said. Also, I usually clean everything up with my ROS after the box is assembled anyway. |
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| Author: | Daniel M [ Tue Mar 21, 2006 3:44 am ] |
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Yeah... What Don said. I think that the friction caused by trying to remove too much at a time causes the glue to soften & smear all over the place. As Dave said, a ROS with fresh 220 paper will clean up the mess, but I suggest getting it done before you cut out the soundhole. It's easy to sand a low spot next to the rosette if you do it afterwards. I try to keep as much of the sander as i can "registered" on the rosette while cleaning & levelling the area. |
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| Author: | peterm [ Tue Mar 21, 2006 3:50 am ] |
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I level sand or scrape first to get it close to flush and ONLY after run it throught the drum sander! Removing too much at once may cause the glue to heat up and smear the top. |
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| Author: | dubell [ Tue Mar 21, 2006 4:39 am ] |
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Ok Don, thanks. How about speed? Right now I am at 1/2 speed. Should I increase or decrease the speed? Thanks, Doug |
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| Author: | Don Williams [ Tue Mar 21, 2006 5:03 am ] |
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I only have one speed....so I can't advise you there. Sorry. |
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| Author: | csullivan [ Tue Mar 21, 2006 5:04 am ] |
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I only use the drum sander for thicknessing tops. After that, any inlay materials are leveled by hand (sanding block and scraper). I really work at getting the inlay cavities and the inlays themselves to be very close in thickness so there is very little cleanup. Shell materials and dark woods can really get embedded in the relatively soft grain of top wood by sanding, so scraping is really better. Using 150 grit paper on the drum sander will just drive those shell and dark wood particles into the top. Craig |
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| Author: | Don Williams [ Tue Mar 21, 2006 5:35 am ] |
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Of course Craig has the right idea, but I'm way too impatient...but it would probably be a good idea to follow his example. |
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| Author: | dubell [ Tue Mar 21, 2006 6:59 am ] |
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Yep, I'll try some scraping next time. Anyone want to buy a Performax 22-44?? Just kidding, I love that thing. |
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| Author: | SimonF [ Wed Mar 22, 2006 5:42 pm ] |
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I love powdered donuts. |
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